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When curating a ranking of London’s best eateries, one might anticipate well-known Michelin-starred names. However, situated prominently among these gastronomic heavyweights is a simple salonu located in a distant part of northern London.

A Shocking Recognition

This compact Turkish eatery, specialising in the culinary delights of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been named the 4th finest restaurant in the city by a influential culinary publication. The accolade has made the proprietors totally shocked.

“I am utterly surprised,” remarks a family member, alluding to his parents’ relentless work that resulted in their small shop securing such a prominent position on a prestigious 99-strong list.

A Charm of Simplicity

This small shop, which was a basic cafe before its change into a sought-after food hotspot, has retained much of its earlier character. It fits just more than 20 people and, beyond the impressive live cooking display, the layout remains essentially unchanged. “It is a compact and cozy space,” notes the owner.

The Namesake Creation: Tantuni

In the end, it’s focused on the cuisine, and this establishment certainly excels. The eatery’s signature dish, tantuni, is a straightforward joy. Choice of meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to maintain a tender texture.

The meat is then tossed into a sizeable pan with flavours and oil, which are incorporated in bit by bit. As the meaty mixture heats through, handmade lavaş—a soft bread—is placed on top to take in all the flavours. Finely sliced onions and a dash of parsley go inside before the flavourful meat is wrapped tightly inside.

The wrap is typically enjoyed with a drizzle of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The outcome is a powerful slap of taste, with soft hints of sumac, sharp onions and rich, paprika-red oil tying it all together.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is chopped and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. The respected food critic labelled this dish “one of London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

When it comes to a sweet finish, the restaurant’s künefe is a delight. It is soaked in lighter syrup than is typical, resulting in it a more intense, nuttier and more balanced profile.

Rising Above the Stars

Notably, this modest restaurant has outplaced several renowned three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself near the summit of the list, trailing other esteemed dining destinations.

Whereas two people could easily leave the restaurant satisfied for less than £25, comparable meals at high-end establishments can start at many times that amount.

A Creed of Hospitality

It is also among several Turkish restaurants included and is found well outside the city’s prime zones. “It is not focused on luxury. London is an costly city. There is an expectation that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the top service and top food but I don’t agree with that,” says the owner.

“I feel what is crucial is warmth, a welcoming atmosphere and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”

The view is echoed by the list’s compiler, who remarked that if he were in a position of power, he would “insist to make every chef in London come to this spot as a masterclass, to teach them the pitfalls of overcomplication, and to demonstrate what is possible if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their very best”.

A Journey of Dedication

In contrast to most chefs heading kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the driving force behind the food didn’t work at fancy establishments. “I feel really proud of our shop and our mum,” concludes her son.

Many restaurants need years to become successful, but this eatery first started seven years ago. Its acclaim is owing to tireless, seven-day weeks of effort.

“My mum was very tired. She would source produce in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. Each item is handmade; she would handle all of this. She is a single mother and she managed a life outside work but her friends would come here to help her. She was raising children and a house to look after as well. All of these responsibilities made her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he shares.

An Achievement for the Culture

The restaurant’s success is set to resonate outside its own premises. “I believe many people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” notes the owner, pointing out the wider significance of this culinary achievement.